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Golden Temple or Darbar Sahib^[3] , informally referred to as The Golden Temple or Temple of God,^[1] is culturally the most significant place of worship of the Sikhs and one of the oldest Sikh gurdwaras. It is located in the city of Amritsar, which was established by Guru Ram Das Ji, the fourth guru of the Sikhs, and is, also due to the shrine, known as Guru Di Nagri meaning city of the Guru.

ntroduction

The Darbar Sahib is considered holy and beautiful by Sikhs because the eternal Guru of Sikhism, the Sri Guru Granth Sahib Ji, is present inside in it. It is moved to the Sri Akal Takhat Sahib at around 10 PM and then moved back from there to Sri Darbar Sahib at 5 AM. Its construction was mainly intended as a place of worship for men and women from all walks of life and all religions to come and worship God equally.^[1][4] The Sri Guru Granth Sahib is the holiest literature in the Sikh religion,^[4] the tenth Guru of Sikhs, Sri Guru Gobind Singh on 7 October 1708 made it the eternal Sikh Guru and the leader of Sikhism.^[4] Anywhere in the world where the Guru Granth Sahib is present is equally holy and precious to Sikhs. Darbar Sahib was built with four doors to show that every religion or faith is allowed to go in to meditate or just listen to the prayers for peace.^[5]

History

Its name literally means House of God. The fourth Guru of Sikhism, Guru Ram Das, excavated a tank in 1577 which subsequently became known as Amritsar (meaning: Pool of the Nectar of Immortality),^[3] giving its name to the city that grew around it. In due course, a splendid Sikh edifice, Darbar Sahib (Temple of God),^[3] was constructed in the middle of this tank which became the supreme centre of Sikhism. Its sanctum came to house the Adi Granth comprising compositions, Sikh values, philosophies and teachings of the Sikh Gurus and other saints of Guru Nanak’s time, e.g. Ravidas a Hindu Guru, Baba Farid a Sufi Sant (Saint) and Kabir, all of whom the Sikhs refer to as the Bhagats.

The compilation of the Adi Granth was started by the fifth Guru of the Sikhs, Guru Arjan Dev.

The Amritsar area

Amritsar is located in the Majha region of the Punjab. Majha is also known as the Bari Doab, since it is the Doab (Do = two, ab = rivers) or the (fluvial) tract of land which lies between two of the five great rivers of the province, the Ravi and the Beas. As such, Majha lies in the heart of the ancient Punjab region, comprising Gurdaspur, Batala and Tarn Taran Sahib as well as Amritsar. Amritsar is also known as “Sifti Da Ghar” or Adorable Abode.

Construction of the Darbar Sahib

Darbar Sahib at night

Originally built during 1574 AD, the site of the temple was surrounded by a small lake in a thin forest. The third of the six grand Mughals, emperor Akbar, who visited the third Sikh Guru, Guru Amar Das, at the neighbouring town of Goindval was so impressed by the way of life in the town that he gave a jagir (the land and the revenues of several villages in the vicinity) to the Guru’s daughter Bhani as a gift on her marriage to Bhai Jetha, who later became the fourth Sikh Guru, Guru Ram Das. Guru Ram Das enlarged the lake and built a small township around it. The town was named after Guru Ram Das as “Guru Ka Chak”, “Chak Ram Das” or “Ram Das Pura”.

During the leadership of the fifth Guru, Guru Arjan Dev Ji (1581-1606), the full-fledged Temple was built. In December 1588 the great Muslim Sufi saint of Lahore, Hazrat Mian Mir, a close friend of Guru Arjan Dev Ji, was asked to lay the corner stone (December 1588).^[1][6] The story has been told that a mason then straightened the stone, to which Guru Arjan said, as you have just undone the work of such a holy man, who knows what disaster might come to the Darbar Sahib. This story has been used to offer a reason why the temple has been attacked so many times by the Afghans and Mughals and even the Indian Army in 1984, during Operation Bluestar, which sparked the Khalistan insurgency that lasted into the 1990s.

The temple was completed in 1604. Guru Arjan Dev Ji, installed the Adi Granth in it and appointed Baba Buddha Ji as the first Granthi (Reader) of the temple on August 1604. In the mid 18th century it was attacked by the Afghans, by one of Ahmed Shah Abdali’s Generals, Jahan Khan, and had to be substantially rebuilt in the 1760s. However, in response a Sikh Army was sent to hunt down the Afghan force. They were under orders to show no mercy and historical evidence suggests none was shown. Both forces met each other 5 miles outside Amritsar where Jahan Khan’s army was destroyed.^[7] He himself was decapitated by commander Sardar Dayal Singh.

The temple is surrounded by a large Sarovar (manmade lake), known as the AmritSar (Lake of Holy Water or Immortal Nectar). There are entrances to the temple on all four sides, signifying the importance of acceptance and openness; ostensibly, this concept is reminiscent of the tent of Abraham in the Old Testament — his tent was open on all four sides in order to be able to welcome travelers from all directions. Inside the temple complex there are many shrines to past Sikh Gurus, Saints and martyrs (see map). There are three holy trees (Bers) each associated with a historical event or Sikh saint. Inside the temple there are many memorial plaques that commemorate past Sikh historical events, saints, martyrs and includes commemorative inscriptions of all the Sikh soldiers who died fighting in the two World Wars. For a new visitor the first recommended place to visit is the information Office highlighted (4) on the map and followed by visiting the Sikh Central museum near the main entrance called the Ghanta Ghar Deori (clock tower gate). Anyone who wants to enter the Darbar Sahib may do so, irrespective of religion, colour, creed or sex. The only restrictions are that the person must not drink alcohol, eat meat or smoke cigarettes or use other non prescription drugs while in the shrine. Visitors are, as well, expected to dress appropriately and everyone must cover their heads as a sign of respect, remove their shoes and socks and enter the temple barefooted. Visitors must wash their feet in the small pool of water as they enter the Darbar Sahib premises. Head scarves are provided.

In 1988, after Operation Black Thunder, a narrow peripheral strip of land (including buildings) was acquired by the government essentially to create a security belt. A large number of people were displaced in the process. However, the project met with a strong resistance from the moderate as well as militant Sikh organisations and the project had to be abandoned, after a senior Government engineer, connected with the project, was killed. The project was revived only in 1993 by the Deputy Commissioner Karan Bir Singh Sidhu, who was also appointed as the Project Director of what was popularly described as the Galliara Project. He changed the concept of the periphery from that of a security belt to that of a second parikarma and created a serene landscape that was fully consistent with the ethereal beauty of the Darbar Sahib. This was done in quiet consultation with the SGPC. The pilgrims today can travel by foot in the Galliara, where no vehicles are permitted.

The Langar Deori or East Entrance gate near Ath-sath Tirath (68 Sacred Places), (Point on the map and the Langar Hall (Point 18)

Artwork and monument sculptures

The golden plates which cover the exterior of the Gurdwara’s upper floor and domes, as well as its exquisite marblework was done under the patronage of Maharaja Ranjit Singh, the leader of the Sikh Empire of the Punjab. Also called Sher-e-Punjab (Lion of the Punjab), the Maharaja was a heavy donor of wealth and materials for the shrine and is remembered with much affection by the Punjabi people in general and the Sikh community in particular. Maharaja Ranjit Singh was responsible for a rennaisance of many Gurdwaras damaged or destroyed during Mughal rule, including many new Gurdwaras as well. Two of the other most revered temples of the Sikhs were built to honor the memory of Guru Gobind Singh Ji. Maharaja Ranjit Singh’s deep love of and respect for the 10th Guru lead to his having both the Takht Sri Patna Sahib (Built at the birth place of Guru Gobind Singh Ji) and the Takht Sri Hazur Sahib (the place where Guru Gobind Singh Ji died).

The arch of the Darshani Deorhi opens onto the causeway which leads to the sanctum sanctorum of the Darbar Sahib; it is 202 feet (62 m) high and 21 feet (6 m) in width. Facing the arch stands the Akal Takht. Hari Singh Nalwa, the Commander-in-Chief of the Sikh Kingdom, wished to make the Akal Takht resplendent with gold and had donated a part of his wealth for this purpose. He also donated a golden palki for the carriage of the Guru Granth Sahib.^[8] None of the existing golden palkis in the Darbar Sahib date back to the 1830s. It was, in all probability, destroyed during Operation Blue Star.^[9] Hukam Singh Chimni also contributed to the embellishments at the Darbar Sahib.

Celebrations at Darbar Sahib

One of the most important festivals is Vaisakhi, which is celebrated in the second week of April (13th usually). Sikhs celebrate the founding of the Khalsa on this day and it is celebrated with fervour in the Darbar Sahib. Other important Sikh religious days such as the martyrdom day of Guru Teg Bahadur, birthday of Guru Nanak etc, are also celebrated with religious piety. Similarly Diwali is one of the festivals which sees the Darbar Sahib beautifully illuminated with Divas/Diyas (lamps),lights and fireworks are discharged. During these special occasions 1-2 million pilgrims visit the Holy shrine named Darbar Sahib.

Most Sikh people visit Amritsar and the Darbar Sahib at least once during their lifetime, particularly during special occasions such as birthdays, marriage, birth of children, etc.

Reaching the Darbar Sahib from abroad

Towers of the Ramgarhia Bunga (Point 17 on map)

Sri Darbar Sahib is reachable by all major links. It is reachable by air, by road and by train. Amritsar has a major train junction operated by the Indian Railways and an international bus terminal operated by the Department of Transport, Punjab which is equipped with most modern amenities. The fastest way for international tourist to reach Darbar Sahib would be to travel by air. The holy city has a rapidly expanding modern airport called Raja Sansi International Airport and Guru Ram Das International Airport. The airport receives international flights from Europe, North America and Central Asia. Most major world cities including London, Tashkent and Toronto are also linked by air with Amritsar. The capital city of India, New Delhi is about 300 miles from Amritsar, there are round-the-clock air, train and road transport connections to Amritsar from New Delhi. There is a rapidly expanding array of international hotels in the holy city that can be booked for overnight stays. Lonely Planet Bluelist 2008 has voted the Sri Darbar Sahib as one of the world’s best spiritual sites.^[10]

Recent events

• On July 6, 2005 the SGPC decided to install closed circuit television cameras around the Darbar Sahib Complex and will be adding more security due to other attacks in India on other religious areas.
• Latin American and Caribbean Ambassadors visit Golden Temple
• London Mayor visits Golden Temple